Dull Randall Made Knives

 

Would you buy a fork without tines? Then why buy a knife without an edge?

People do it all the time. I do it all the time. But then again, I know how to put an edge on a knife. Lots of folks don’t. Even with the help of all the new-fangled sharpening devices on the market.  Some people just can't get the hang of it or are intimidated by the process.  Remember, if you are going to use your knife, it is going to get scratched.  You may as well put the first scratches on it right away and get it over with.  You will enjoy your knife all the more.

Imagine back in the old days when your sharpening choices were either a soft or hard Arkansas stone. It was back in those dark ages I learned to sharpen. I’d sit at the workbench my dad set up for me and practice for hours. My hand learned to hold a knife consistently at a precise angle so I could sharpen my Swiss Army Farmer on the same 3” stone I sharpened my dad’s 8” carving knife on. So I have no issues with buying a Randall

I’ve had hundreds of Randalls pass through my hands. Each one I scrutinized for the fit/finish as well as the symmetry of the grind, edge geometry, and sharpness. In the first three categories, Randalls consistently pass with flying colors. Outstanding actually. It is truly amazing to me that a 40+-year-old Model 23 will have the same blade length, handle length, guard length, choil width as a new one. Usually all within 1/16”. Keep in mind, neither was made with a pattern or CNC machinery. There are folks out there who have actually accused Randall of drinking the Koolaide and started using the aforementioned techniques. The only consistent difference I’ve noticed between older knives and knives of the last ten years is the thickness of the grind from the spine to the edge. Old ones are exponentially thicker. I’ll address that in another article.

Everything else is so consistently accurate, then why not the edge?

I’ve often wondered about that. The whole idea behind a knife is to cut things. Otherwise, they would be called clubs. Years ago when I first started buying Randall’s, I noticed how some were actually quite sharp, others only sharp in places, and others not sharp…anywhere. I also noticed how there was the occasional “wire edge” left on the blade.

This got me thinking. I’m certain Bo Randall made his knives as sharp as possible before he shipped them to servicemen in WWII. Otherwise, those men would not have been spending a month's salary to buy one and flooding Bo with orders. Rather, they would have stuck with the Ka-Bar they were issued. Soldiers like things that work. The Colt 45, P38 can opener and sharp Randall Knives.

Did the dull Randall appear after the knives became more of a collector’s display piece rather than a user?

It could not have been immediately after WWII that this happened. Many servicemen returned home with their Randall’s. They would hunt with them. The Model 1-7 proved to be a little unwieldy for hunting, so Bo designed and offered the option to order a Model 5-5 or Model 3-5, which many did. And those knives were delivered sharp.

In more recent times, things have changed. What is going on in the mind of the person responsible for putting the edge on the knife? Is there a laissez-faire attitude setting in with the thinking being “this is going in a safe or a display case, so why bother spending the time to make it razor sharp.”

There is not another custom maker I receive knives from where the edge is sort of an “Edge du jour”. You never know what you are going to get. Bob Dozier puts a hair poppin’ edge on all of his, as does Tom Krein, Rick Hinderer, AA Forge, LT Wright, Battle Horse, and of course ESEE. I’ve never received anything other than a scary edge on a Spyderco. They actually may be too sharp! If all those guys can do it, why not Randall?

In their defense

Once you do get an edge on a Randall, it is a thing of beauty. Wow! How it cuts! The heat treat is splendid on their O1 and 440B stainless. They really have those recipes down perfectly. Now, if they would just please, for the love of cutlery, put an edge on EVERY knife. It only takes a few moments because O1 and 440B are terrific steels that are happy to get sharp for you.

Let’s be perfectly frank and honest here. I LOVE Randall Made Knives. I get a thrill unwrapping that butcher paper each time. Even if it is for a standard version of a knife that I’ve already had 10 of. They are truly works of art. Also, there is almost nothing more pleasurable than using a Randall with a beautiful edge on it to dress a deer or pig or head of lettuce. What a joy. It is a shame that so many guys are denied that pleasure right out of the butcher paper.

Has this ever really been discussed?

From what I could research, the answer is yes and no. It does get brought up, but only very briefly and the individual asking the question is flamed pretty hard and fast. I personally think it is a legitimate question and a good topic for discussion. A person can be a “fan” or even a “fanboy” of a brand, yet should still be able to have an intelligent adult discussion. This is clearly not the case on the Randall forums. The question is quite a “hot button”. And some of the answers, when not just flat-out hostile, are rather comical. For instance, one forum member actually answered with “I find a wire edge to be great when field dressing”. To that, I reply “Okay buddy, when that wire edge falls off, which it will, how are you going to replicate it in the field? I’ll be over here with my Bob Dozier Master Skinner (or my new favorite Randall, the Model 28…that I sharpened) and when I’m finished processing a deer, I’ll finish yours. In the meantime, you will have a very expensive, very pretty, well made, highly collectible, heirloom-quality tent stake.”

All the Randall shop needs to do is train two guys (in case one is out sick or on vacation) on how to use a couple of different belt grinders of varying grits to put a nice edge on the knife. I know for a fact that would make lots of Randall enthusiasts very happy. At least the ones who use their knives.

What else should be sharp on a knife?

Nothing. The only acceptable exception is a nice sharp 90-degree spine on a Bushcraft knife so it can strike against a Ferro rod to create sparks and start a fire. Squared hilts, sharp corners, and edges on hilts, sharp choils, are a pain. Seriously, they cause pain. Ever try to use a knife with one of those features for an extended period of time? Then you know what “hot spots” are all about. Makers like Dozier and Krein painstakingly design their knives to eliminate hot spots and make the knife comfortable to use for extended periods of time. They even round exposed finger guards and choils.

Sounds like I am bashing Randall.

In reality, I’m not. I love their knives. I honestly believe they are the most recognized and sought-after and collectible cutlery made. That is my opinion. Bo Randall put a lot of thought into the design of his knives, materials used, and his successful business model. I truly believe that had Litch Steinman been using a dull William Scagel knife, there would be no such thing as Randall Made Knives today. How could Bo possibly be inspired by a dull knife?

My hope is that Randall is still making knives, at the same pace and location, 200 years from now. I simply want my people to know that if they are planning on using a knife for something more than a fancy paperweight or decoration, then they need to take what I’m writing to heart. If you buy a Randall to use, take into consideration that the one you order may not be all that ready for action when you receive it. If you are not savvy at sharpening, now is the time to learn.  You have 5+ years to practice before your knife arrives.  Or, you can send it to any number of well-respected sharpening guys.

As a consumer/collector, what should I do?

By writing this article, I hope I am helping my readers become better edgeucate (get it?)  as to what to expect when they receive a Randall Made Knife. 

 

 

How I Made The Best Tactical Knife Ever Made...Even Better

When Les De Asis wanted a serious folding combat knife incorporating the Michael Walker designed liner lock with ball detent, he teamed up with Chris Caracci and developed the AFCK. This stands for Advanced Folding Combat Knife. I’ve also heard it referred to the Armed Forces Combat Knife, which is incorrect but would be a great name as well. Whatever you want to call it, it certainly did usher in, or even possibly create the new genre of the tactical folding knife.

Chris and Les only collaborated on one knife. It is my understanding that Les has a nasty habit of not paying designers. Allen Elisewitz and Ernest Emerson fell victim to Les, so it would not surprise me Les did the same to Chris. Although I love the AFCK and praise it for being such a groundbreaking design, it is Chris Caracci I am directing that praise to. I’m just thankful Benchmade made them and did such a consistently good job of it.

Chris Caracci, a former Navy Seal came up with this amazing design. It is clearly not as high tech as some of the newer knives of the day, but I can tell you that the one I have been carrying now for 20+ years is a true workhorse. As you can see in the photos below, a lot of the black has been worn off the blade.

 

I am so happy the AFCK was conceived and had as long a production run as it did. It went through countless upgrades and configurations. For this article, I’ll be focusing on the Large AFCK 800BT and the Small AFCK 814BT. Both have 154CM blades, which replaced the ATS-34 steel used for several years. Both steels are exactly the same, except, 154CM is made in the USA by Crucible, and ATS-34 is made in Japan by Hitachi. 

My 800BT arrived one day and sat on the front porch all day until I returned home from work. I’d say that was the winter of 1997. This particular one hit all the marks as far as fit and finish. The blade had a beautiful symmetrical edge and grind, the oval hole was a thing of beauty, the lock-up of the liner lock was right at 50% which is right where I like them to start.  The photo below shows 20+ years of use and more than 50%.  But still solid!!

Lots of folks seem to like early lock up. Perhaps their thinking is that over time the lock will wear a little and move in closer to the center. It is a strong lock-up with no wiggle or play. The G10 had the usual texture to be expected on all the Benchmade G10 knives at the time. The clip is Parkerized, not the painted clip you find on other Benchmades these days. The bushings are nylon and work well, but I’ll address that in Part II. Not as slick as the oil-impregnated bronze bushings you find today, but remember, this knife is very old school and one of the “foundation” knives for everything else you see today. It really had no predecessor. When it hit the market, it was such a step up from anything else anyone had seen. Sal Glesser of Spyderco developed the thumb hole and thank goodness he was cool enough to license the use of it to Benchmade. Otherwise, this knife would never have happened. Or it would’ve had thumb studs like it does on the axis lock version. I personally find thumb studs to get in the way. On some knives, like the Chris Reeve Sebenza, thumb studs work, sort of. But, of late, I've been removing lots of thumb studs on those and putting holes in them. Makes that knife much better. Perhaps I'll write about that in a future article.

Spyderco was making pocket clip knives with holes, but they all were very plain and used mid locks, not liner locks. Michael Walker’s liner was in its infancy and the knife industry was on the verge of an explosion of new designs because of these two patented ideas, the liner lock, and the thumb hole. What a match made in knife heaven. The AFCK, in my opinion, was the first real entry into the world of “Tactical Folder”.

If you have ever held an AFCK, you have experienced what a pleasure it is to look at. If you have ever used an AFCK, then you understand how the simplistic design shape is perfect for long and heavy use and it can be gripped in numerous ways for just about any situation. And with some practice, can be out of your pocket and open in the blink of an eye.

Now here is where you may think I am off my rocker, but my decision may have spearheaded a design change that you now take for granted on your knives with pocket clips. If you study the amazing shape of the handle of the AFCK, it clearly begs to be a Tip-Up carry knife. But, Benchmade only made it Tip Down. In doing so, they forced your hand to contend with the bulkier and square front end of the knife as well as the thumb grooves on the spine of the blade. However, in the Tip-Up orientation, the edge of your hand would glide ever so smoothly past the back of the knife on its way into your pocket to retrieve change or car keys.

I called Benchmade and asked if I would be able to send the knife back to them and have them drill and tap holes for me to make the knife a Tip-Up Carry. I was told “No”. That was the length of the reply. A one-word sentence. So I asked to speak to someone higher in the food chain than a “customer service rep”. The manager of the repairs department was put on the line. I wish I had the foresight to take down some names, but alas, I did not (I do that now for sure). The repairs manager stated that they did not have the tooling or the machinery in the repairs department to do what I was asking. He also indicated that there was no discussion by the design people of making the AFCK a Tip-Up Carry in the foreseeable future. He even said that with the shape of the handle, he did not see just where they would be able to put a clip. End of conversation.

After that enlightening conversation, it was time to adjourn to the workshop. After removing the pocket clip, I used a micrometer to measure the screws. After that, it’s off to the precision tool store to get a drill bit. They had what I wanted so I bought two because you know darn well that if you only buy one, you will break it and be driving back to the store. I also purchased a bit one size smaller and one size larger. These are not your usual twist drill bits, but precision bits for CNC machines and made completely of tungsten. The tool shop did not have any taps the size I needed, but I thought I would be able to wing it anyway.

Back in the shop, three holes were drilled. I decided not to make the hole in the G10 any larger than the hole in the titanium liner as they do at the factory. My thinking was that I could use the G10 as part of the media I screw into. What I was about to do was going to make only partial threads in both the G10 and titanium. Using a little oil and the screws that came with the knife, I very slowly and patiently began the process of screwing in the screw a little, then backing it out, then back in, and out and repeating, cleaning the screw of debris periodically. It took about 15 minutes of this, per hole, to get the screw to show itself on the inside of the knife. And, I had managed to use only one screw, without breaking the head off or stripping the Allen head. The threads were worn quite a bit, so I made that screw the one that is at the tip of the clip. The two unused screws, with their fresh threads, had to do a little work to get all the way through, but that is a good thing as it made them even more snug and secure. I figured that if they all went in, I did not want any movement of the screws and I had no plans to remove them or flip the clip. So, I used a little epoxy in the holes which acted as a lubricant and proceeded with the final assembly. The epoxy cured and this clip has not budged in 20 years. If I ever catch the clip on something and bend it, I’m screwed. Ha!!

My only limitation to where I put the clip was the location of the hardware that holds the scales on and the position of the thong hole. I put it as high as I could so the knife would ride nice and low in my pocket.

The picture below shows the view from inside the liner and the very end of the screw poking through the hole.

Now here below is a picture of my newest addition to the AFCK family, the AXIS lock with M390 steel. Notice where Benchmade put the clip. Hmmm. Looks strangely familiar. Wonder where they got the idea. I find it hard to believe that working with a company so far advanced in the CNC world of knife technology, that Les wouldn’t have been able to say, “Hey guys, let's take an afternoon and plot some new points on the commands of the drill head, make a new fixture to hold the knife and drill some holes where they should be."

Below are two photos of the knife I modified, on top, and the factory knife.

And a close-up shot.

Well, I have a good hunch that my letter and photographs that were sent to Benchmade as a follow-up showing the completed project got them talking among themselves and probably very quickly made a prototype. Then somebody probably put that prototype put it in their pocket and exclaimed “Hell yeah” this is a way to go, and never took it out of their pocket. That’s all it would take. If you can put a knife that has almost a 4″ blade in your pocket via a clip and still easily slip your hand in and out, then you have really got something there. Also, come to find out, the vast majority of folks like Tip-Up. So, you have not only taken advantage of the natural shape of the handle that acts like a shoehorn guiding your hand into your pocket, but you have also oriented the knife in a more popular, useful, and more quickly deployed position. If you use the “zip tie” method, you can have it open itself on the way out

of your pocket.

With the clip where I wanted it, the only other thing I thought I could do to improve the design is the thumb notch/ramp aimed at the thumb hole.

 

Wonder how many of you picked up on that feature in the above photos. The notch acts like an aiming device for your thumb and you soon find that your thumb naturally hits the hole every time as it should and the knife opens almost automatically. What a great feeling. All it took was a quarter-round bastard file to slowly shape the notch, being careful not to cut too far and into the liner. Then a little emery cloth to smooth it out and you are done. I never sent pictures of this addition to Benchmade, so maybe that is why you don’t see that feature on them now. (Yes, that is sarcasm)

Above, I mentioned the AXIS version of the AFCK. The first one I purchased had the D2 blade and I was frankly disappointed. Why? Well, it is thicker, heavier, and overall probably 5% larger in all dimensions. The AXIS part is fantastic. But why did they have to use stainless steel liners? Even perforated, that is quite a jump in weight. The liners are fatter, so the overall thickness of the knife is increased exponentially. It is also wider and longer. It really does make it just a little too bulky for pocket clip wear. The Axis knife pulls on the pocket, whereas the older liner lock version, with titanium liners, does not. So I sold the D2 version and bought one of the M390’s with all black G10 that is contoured and textured very nicely. The fit and finish are better and it has beautifully anodized standoffs. I really thought it was going to be lighter because I was told the liners were titanium, but I can tell you most certainly they are not. The thumb hole is not oval but is round just like on the original AFCK’s but slightly larger. So opening it is still a simple flick of the thumb. The size of the previously mentioned Axis lock version was still a little too much for me, so I put the original clip back on it and sold the knife. I don’t miss it for a second.

The first thing I did with the new one was take off the pocket clip and install one of the older generation clips. Thank God they did not change the whole pattern like Spyderco has done.

Having successfully modified my 800BT, it was time to duplicate my efforts on my 814BT. With the smaller knife having stainless steel liners instead of the titanium of its big brother, it actually made the “machining” process a little easier. I still used epoxy as a lube and setting agent. In the photos, you see my old handle, but the new blade. I found a NOS AFCK with a very nicely ground blade so I thought it would be neat to pop the new blade into the old handle. Works like a charm and the lock-up is like Fort Knox. This is my EDC knife. There are times I panic and think I lost the knife because I don’t feel it clipped to my pocket even after having put my hand into my pocket numerous times throughout the day. Due to the Tip-Up orientation and the curvature of the handle, I never feel it. From years of my hand gliding past the knife, it is beginning to polish the nylon standoff/spacer between the scales.

Here is my Large and Small hanging out together.

With all the newfangled knives out there, many of which I have owned, I always go back to the AFCK for its pure utilitarian design, quality of materials, ease of carry, speed and ease of deployment, and durability of construction. Even my Spyderco Paramilitary sits in the drawer 85% of the time because I always instinctively reach for the AFCK. 

In closing, my dream would be if they were to resurrect the original design with my two improvements and perhaps replace the 154CM blade with K390, 20CV, or even the trusty old standby S30V. Maybe I should call Les.

A couple of pictures of the finished product in my pocket.  

Loveless Knives – The End Of An Era

Ever since I learned of Jim Merritt’s passing in December of 2018, I’ve been giving a lot of thought to knife makers and their legacy. There are a couple of makers who really, and I mean REALLY had an impact on modern knife making and design. William Scagel, in my opinion, is at the top of the list. Right under him is Bob Loveless. And, before any of you get your knickers in a twist because your favorite maker was not on this very short list, Think. Think…are there entire generations of knives named after your maker? Will you find a nod to your favorite maker’s design work in just about every fixed blade knife now made? Doubtful. Even James Behring Jr. makes knives he calls Scagel knives. Here is one.

If Not For Scagel, There Would Be No Randall

Sure, Randall Made Knives have 30+ models that they have designed over the years, but each of them has a little Scagel DNA in them. All you have to do is look at the handle design and construction as well as some of the blade shapes. It also does not hurt that Randall states that he wanted to make an exact copy of the Scagel. Randall certainly evolved has added his own (as well as others, namely Tommy Thompson and Ward Gay) trademark design elements to the knives, which have in turn been copied by other makers. But it all started with Scagel and the “Boat Scraping Knife”.

Did Someone Say Drop Point?

Then there is Bob Loveless. Just describing a knife with a Dropped Point, or as more commonly is referred to as a Drop Point, is a nod to Bob Loveless. The shape of the handle of his hunter is also now so common, makers don’t even credit him with the design. It is considered the standard. Let’s not forget about tapered tangs. How about Loveless Bolts. Gee, how many makers have a part named after them. Only a few. For example, Michael Walker has the liner lock with a ball detent. (Liner locks had been around prior to Michael, but not with ball detents), Chris Reeve created the integral frame lock, which is an adaptation from Michael’s liner, and Rick Hinderer has the overextension stop, which, if not for Michael Walker and Chris Reeve, would never have been spawned because there would not be a frame lock needing an overextension device.

Bob Loveless was a great designer. His mind was constantly churning out new ideas for all kinds of products or ways to vastly improve existing products. He designed the mechanism that made Chatty Kathy talk. He made improvements to guns. As for knife making, he revolutionized something as basic as the way a guard is affixed to a knife handle of a knife and then how the handle slabs are attached. These are things that are taken for granted these days. Think about all the knives you have owned or wanted to own. Did it have a full tang? Was that tang tapered? Was there a red (or any color for that matter) liner between the handle and the tang? Was the blade deeply hollow ground? Is it stainless? Is the spine nice and polished, without sharp edges? Is there a nice palm swell in the handle? Is the point of the knife dropped so you don’t pierce the entrails of the deer you are processing? Is the ricasso in direct line with the blade with no fancy choil or finger groove creating a place for the hide of the animal to get caught on? Is your knife perfectly balanced? Do you have a Micarta handle? Is the name of the maker acid etched into the blade rather than stamped? Does the leather sheath hold the knife even when upside down? Does your knife “pop” when it finds “home” in the sheath? Well, if you answered yes to any of those questions, then can I hear a “THANK YOU BOB !!!!

My admiration for Bob does in no way diminish my admiration of Randall Made Knives or Bob Dozier. They both are tremendous talents and have contributed untold benefits to knife making and makers. I’ll touch on their contributions in another article. My focus for this article is on Bob Loveless.

ManGearUSA … A Loveless Dealer?

When I was approached to become a Loveless Dealer, I was thrilled. Just to be associated with that famous name was so exciting. Prior to my first order landing at my door, I’d never owned a Loveless. I’ve owned plenty of incredibly well done Loveless homages. Specifically the W.C. Davis version, but never a real Loveless. I’d touched a few years ago at knife shows. But never took one home. Suddenly, I owned three, and that was just the start.

After I received that first batch and took all the pictures to put them on my site, it dawned me that Jim Merritt was in his 80’s. That simple fact, and the fact he was never seen wearing a mask when working, and always had a cigarette in his hands, made me a little nervous as to the longevity of this new relationship. What really made me sad was the realization that there was nobody learning the craft from Jim. Jim was a great maker. His attention to detail, fit, and finish was second to none. That is why Loveless worked hard to convince Jim to work in the Loveless shop. Jim probably made the Loveless you own. He worked for Loveless for 30+ years and continued after Bob’s death in 2010. Bob was an amazing visionary and designer but not the greatest maker. His work was really quite excellent and better than most, but not to the level of a Jim Merritt or in my opinion, Steve Johnson. He also began to tire of life in the shop and wanted to do other things. But, knife making was what put dinner on the table, and with enough orders and notoriety to last a lifetime, he passed the “making” torch to Jim. Now, before some of the Loveless “fanboys” get too worked up, since becoming a Dealer I’ve had the opportunity to examine early examples of Loveless, and also a couple during the height of Bob’s making and then some Jim Merritt knives prior to partnering with Bob. Bob’s early knives were great users, but his fit and finish were not pristine. But, in his defense, as a part-time maker, I realize that skill constantly evolves and improvements in machinery also play a big role. He was also not in the business of making safe queens. His knives were to be used. Sometimes, if something is too pretty, you end up not using it. He also admitted that those first knives were, to a degree, copies of Randall Made Knives. When his own personal designs started selling and changing the knife world, his construction techniques changed and his attention to detail did as well. But, even at his best, his craftsmanship was not that of Jim Merritt. Jim had a good reputation in the knife world and was a regular at the shows with a steady following. But…not like the crowd that would be at the Loveless table. Jim loved to make knives, Bob loved to schmooze with the people and talk knives. It was a match made in heaven.

What’s Next?

On the one hand, I’d love to see another maker, trained by Jim and having apprenticed in the shop for several years, continue the brand. But, on the other hand, is that really practical? Are some era’s supposed to end? Sure, there are Loveless trained makers still doing work of their own. Steve Johnson, mentioned above, Brent Harp who died in 2016, and Koichiro Oda. The only thing about a different maker is that it’s really not a Loveless. There would be no more Loveless mystique. When things are one generation removed, they sort of lose their attraction. Another maker, even if trained by Bob and Jim, would simply just be another maker, trained by Bob and Jim, making Loveless designs. The best example of this is if W.C. Davis was still alive and making knives in the Loveless Shop. He would never be able to command the prices that Bob and Jim “Loveless” knives were fetching. I’ve seen tons of Loveless Homages. W.C. made the best. I have one of his best large dropped hunters. For all intents and purposes, it could have come out of the Loveless shop. But, even at the high price of $700.00, I can’t picture Jim or Bob even getting out of bed for that price.

Randall Made Knives is a family business and name. Sure, there are employees at Randall. But their business is a different animal altogether. That topic is for another day.

So, it seems that the era of a great designer and ambassador of the knife making world is truly at an end. I’d really like to see the shop stay intact and be turned into a museum of sorts. I’d pay a nice admission price to walk through the shop. Even if it was in its entirety, moved to the Smithsonian. But, something tells me my wish will not come true. I’m sure all of the shop items will be auctioned off to the highest bidder and parceled away all over the world.