Dull Randall Made Knives

 

Would you buy a fork without tines? Then why buy a knife without an edge?

People unwittingly buy them that way all the time. Every one of them I've bought has been that way...at least somewhere on the edge. But, I have an advantage, I know how to put an edge on a knife. Lots of folks don’t. Even with the help of all the new-fangled sharpening devices on the market.  Some people just can't get the hang of it or are intimidated by the process.  Remember, if you plan to use your knife, it will likely get scratched.  You may as well put the first scratches on it right away and get it over with.  Just count to three, hold your breath, and cut a couple of pieces of cardboard.  Now you have broken in your knife and can relax and enjoy.

Imagine back in the old days when your sharpening choices were either a soft or hard Arkansas stone. It was back in those dark ages that I learned to sharpen. I’d sit at the workbench my dad set up for me and practice for hours. My hand learned to hold a knife consistently at a precise angle so I could sharpen my Swiss Army Farmer on the same 3” stone I sharpened my dad’s 8” carving knife on. So I have no issues with buying and sharpening a Randall.

I’ve had hundreds of Randalls pass through my hands. Each one I scrutinized for the fit/finish as well as the symmetry of the blade grind, edge geometry, and of course sharpness. In the first three categories, Randalls consistently pass with flying colors. Outstanding actually. It is truly amazing to me that a 40+ year-old Model 23 will have the same blade length, handle length, guard length, and choil width as a new one. Usually all within 1/16”. Keep in mind, neither was made with a pattern or CNC machinery. There are folks out there who have actually accused Randall of drinking the Kool-Aid and started using the aforementioned techniques. The only consistent difference I’ve noticed between older knives and knives of the last ten years is the thickness of the grind from the spine to the edge. Old ones are exponentially thicker. Maybe I’ll address that in another article.

Everything else is so consistently accurate, then why not the edge?

I’ve often wondered about that. The whole idea behind a knife is to cut things. Otherwise, they would be called clubs. Years ago, when I first started buying Randall’s, I noticed how some were actually quite sharp, others only sharp in places, and others not sharp…anywhere. I also noticed how there was the occasional “wire edge” left on the blade.

This got me thinking. I’m certain Bo Randall made his knives as sharp as possible before he shipped them to servicemen in WWII. Otherwise, those men would not have been spending a month's salary to buy one and flooding Bo with orders. Rather, they would have stuck with the Ka-Bar they were issued. Soldiers like things that work. The Colt 45, P38 can opener, and sharp Randall Knives.

Did the dull Randall appear after the knives became more of a collector’s display piece rather than a user?

It could not have been immediately after WWII that this happened. Many servicemen returned home with their Randalls. They would hunt with them. The Model 1-7 proved to be a little unwieldy for hunting, so Bo designed and offered the option to order a Model 5-5 or Model 3-5, which many did. And those knives were delivered sharp.

In more recent times, things have changed. What is going on in the mind of the person responsible for putting the edge on the knife? Is there a laissez-faire attitude setting in at Randall, with the thinking being “this is going in a safe or a display case, so why bother spending the time to make it razor sharp”?

There is no other custom maker I receive knives from where the edge is sort of an “Edge du jour”. You never know what you are going to get. Bob Dozier puts a hair-popping edge on all of his, as does Tom Krein, Rick Hinderer, AA Forge, LT Wright, Battle Horse, and, of course, ESEE. I’ve never received anything other than a scary edge on a Spyderco. They actually may be too sharp! If all those guys can do it, why not Randall?

In their defense

Once you do get an edge on a Randall, it is a thing of beauty. Wow! How it cuts! The heat treat is splendid on their O1 and 440B stainless. They really have those recipes down perfectly. Now, if they would just please, for the love of cutlery, put an edge on EVERY knife. It only takes a few moments because O1 and 440B are terrific steels that are happy to get sharp for you.

Let’s be perfectly frank and honest here. I LOVE Randall Made Knives. I get a thrill unwrapping that butcher paper each time. Even if it is for a standard version of a knife that I’ve already had 10 of. They are truly works of art. Also, there is almost nothing more pleasurable than using a Randall with a beautiful edge on it to dress a deer or pig, or a head of lettuce. What a joy. It is a shame that so many guys are denied that pleasure right out of the butcher paper.

Has this ever really been discussed?

From what I could research, the answer is yes and no. It does get brought up every now and then on one of their biggest forums, but the individual asking the question is flamed pretty hard and fast. I personally think it is a legitimate question and a good topic for discussion. A person can be a “fan” or even a “fanboy” of a brand, yet should still be able to have an intelligent adult discussion. This is clearly not the case on the Randall forums. The question is quite a “hot button”. And some of the answers, when not just flat-out hostile, are rather comical. For instance, one forum member actually answered with “I find a wire edge to be great when field dressing”. To that, I reply, “Okay, when that wire edge falls off, which it will, how are you going to replicate it in the field? I’ll be over here with my Bob Dozier Master Skinner (or my new favorite Randall, the Model 28…that I sharpened) and when I’m finished processing a deer, I’ll finish yours. In the meantime, you will have a very expensive, very pretty, well-made, highly collectible, heirloom-quality tent stake.”

All the Randall shop needs to do is train two guys (in case one is out sick or on vacation) on how to use a couple of different belt grinders of varying grits to put a nice edge on the knife. I know for a fact that would make lots of Randall enthusiasts very happy. At least the ones who use their knives.

What else should be sharp on a knife?

Nothing. The only acceptable exception is a 90-degree spine on a Bushcraft knife so it can strike against a Ferro rod to create sparks and start a fire. Squared hilts, sharp corners, and 90-degree edges on hilts, sharp choils, are a pain. Seriously, they cause pain. Ever try to use a knife with one of those features for an extended period of time? Then you know what “hot spots” are all about. Makers like Dozier and Krein painstakingly design their knives to eliminate hot spots and make the knife comfortable to use for extended periods. They even round exposed finger guards and choils.

Sounds like I am bashing Randall.

In reality, I’m not. I love their knives. I believe they are the most recognized and sought-after, and collectible cutlery made. That is my opinion. Bo Randall put a lot of thought into the design of his knives, the materials used, and his successful business model. I truly believe that had Litch Steinman been using a dull William Scagel knife, there would be no such thing as Randall Made Knives today. How could Bo possibly be inspired by a dull knife?

My hope is that Randall is still making knives, at the same pace and location, 200 years from now. I simply want my people to know that if they are planning on using a knife for something more than a fancy paperweight or decoration, then they need to take what I’m writing to heart. If you buy a Randall to use, take into consideration that the one you order may not be all that ready for action when you receive it. If you are not savvy at sharpening, now is the time to learn.  You have 5+ years to practice before your knife arrives.  Or, you can send it to any number of well-respected sharpening guys.

As a consumer/collector, what should I do?

By writing this article, I hope I am helping my readers become better edgeucate (see what I did there?)  as to what to expect when they receive a Randall Made Knife. 

 

 

How I Made The Best Tactical Knife Ever Made...Even Better

When Les De Asis wanted a serious folding combat knife that featured the Michael Walker-designed liner lock with a ball detent, he teamed up with Chris Caracci to develop the AFCK. This stands for Advanced Folding Combat Knife. I’ve also heard it called the Armed Forces Combat Knife, which is incorrect but would be a great name too. Whatever you want to call it, it definitely ushered in, or possibly even created, a new genre of tactical folding knives.

Chris and Les only collaborated on one knife. It is my understanding that Les has a nasty habit of not paying designers. Allen Elisewitz and Ernest Emerson have fallen victim to Les, so I wouldn't be surprised if Les did the same to Chris. Although I love the AFCK and praise it for being such a groundbreaking design, I am directing that praise to Chris Caracci. I’m just thankful that Benchmade made them and did such a consistently good job with it.

Chris Caracci, a former Navy SEAL, came up with this incredible design. While it isn't as advanced as some of the newer knives out there, I can tell you that the one I've been carrying for over 20 years is a real workhorse. As shown in the photos below, much of the black coating has worn off the blade.

 

I'm really glad the AFCK was created and enjoyed such a long production run. It went through many upgrades and different versions. For this article, I’ll focus on the Large AFCK 800BT and the Small AFCK 814BT. Both feature 154CM blades, which replaced the ATS-34 steel used for several years. Both steels are exactly the same, except that 154CM is made in the USA by Crucible, while ATS-34 is made in Japan by Hitachi. 

My 800BT arrived one day and sat on the front porch all day until I got home from work. I’d say that was during the winter of 1997. This particular one checked all the boxes when it comes to fit and finish. The blade had a beautiful symmetrical edge and grind, the oval hole was a thing of beauty, and the lock-up of the liner lock was right at 50%, which is where I like them to start. The photo below shows 20+ years of use and more than 50% wear, but it’s still solid!!

Many people seem to prefer early locking mechanisms. Maybe they think that over time, the lock will wear slightly and move closer to the center. It’s a sturdy lock-up with no wiggle or play. The G10 had the typical texture expected on all Benchmade G10 knives at that time. The clip is Parkerized, unlike the painted clips found on other Benchmades today. The bushings are nylon and work well, but I’ll discuss that in Part II. They aren’t as slick as the oil-impregnated bronze bushings you see now, but remember, this knife is very old school and one of the “foundation” knives for all the others you see today. It really had no predecessor. When it hit the market, it was a huge upgrade from anything else available. Sal Glesser of Spyderco developed the thumb hole, and thank goodness he was generous enough to license its use to Benchmade. Otherwise, this knife might never have been made, or it would have had thumb studs like the axis lock version. I personally find thumb studs get in the way. On some knives, such as the Chris Reeve Sebenza, thumb studs work, kind of. But lately, I've been removing many thumb studs on those and drilling holes instead. It makes that knife much better. Maybe I'll write about that in a future article.

Spyderco was making pocket clip knives with holes, but they all were very plain and used mid locks, not liner locks. Michael Walker’s liner was in its early stages, and the knife industry was on the verge of a boom in new designs because of two patented ideas: the liner lock and the thumb hole. What a perfect match made in knife heaven. The AFCK, in my opinion, was the first true entry into the world of “Tactical Folder.”

 

If you have ever held an AFCK, you know how enjoyable it is to look at. If you have ever used an AFCK, you understand how the simple design makes it perfect for long and heavy use, and it can be gripped in many ways for nearly any situation. With some practice, it can be out of your pocket and open in an instant.

 

Now, here’s where you might think I’m crazy, but my idea may have led to a design change that you now take for granted on your pocket clip knives. If you look at the amazing shape of the AFCK handle, it clearly suggests it should be a Tip-Up carry knife. But, Benchmade only made it Tip-Down. This forced your hand to deal with the bulkier, square front end of the knife and the thumb grooves on the spine of the blade. However, in the Tip-Up position, the edge of your hand would glide smoothly past the back of the knife as you reach into your pocket for change or car keys.

I called Benchmade to ask if I could send the knife back to them and have them drill and tap holes so I could make the knife a Tip-Up Carry. I was told “No”. That was the entire response—a one-word answer. So I asked to speak to someone higher than a “customer service rep”. The manager of the repairs department was put on the line. I wish I had remembered to write down some names, but I didn’t (I definitely do that now). The repairs manager said they didn’t have the tools or machinery in the repairs department to do what I was asking. He also said that there has been no discussion by the design team about making the AFCK a Tip-Up Carry in the near future. He even mentioned that because of the handle shape, he didn’t see where they could add a clip. End of conversation.

My only limitation on where I placed the clip was the location of the hardware holding the scales and the position of the thong hole. I positioned it as high as I could so the knife would ride nicely low in my pocket.

 

The picture below shows the view from inside the liner and the very end of the screw poking through the hole.

Now here is a picture of my newest addition to the AFCK family, the AXIS lock with M390 steel. Notice where Benchmade placed the clip. Hmmm. Looks oddly familiar. I wonder where they got the idea. I find it hard to believe that, working with a company so advanced in the CNC world of knife technology, Les wouldn’t have said, “Hey guys, let's take an afternoon and plot some new points on the commands of the drill head, make a new fixture to hold the knife, and drill some holes where they should be."

Below are two photos of the knife I modified, on top, and the factory knife.

And a close-up shot.

Well, I have a good hunch that my letter and photographs sent to Benchmade as a follow-up showing the completed project got them talking among themselves and probably quickly led to a prototype. Then, someone probably put that prototype in their pocket and exclaimed, “Hell yeah,” this is the way to go, and never took it out. That’s all it would take. If you can put a knife with almost a 4" blade in your pocket via a clip and still easily slip your hand in and out, then you’ve really got something. Also, I found out that the vast majority of folks prefer Tip-Up. So, not only have you taken advantage of the natural shape of the handle, which acts like a shoehorn guiding your hand into your pocket, but you’ve also oriented the knife in a more popular, useful, and quickly deployable position. If you use the “zip tie” method, you can have it open itself on the way out of your pocket.

 

Wonder how many of you noticed that feature in the photos above. The notch functions like an aiming device for your thumb, and you quickly realize that your thumb naturally hits the hole every time as it should, causing the knife to open almost automatically. It’s an incredible feeling. All it took was a quarter-round bastard file to carefully shape the notch, being cautious not to cut too far into the liner. Then a bit of emery cloth to smooth it out, and you're done. I never sent pictures of this modification to Benchmade, so maybe that’s why you don’t see that feature on their knives now. (Yes, that’s sarcasm) I mentioned the AXIS version of the AFCK earlier. The first one I bought had a D2 blade, and I was honestly disappointed. Why? Well, it’s thicker, heavier, and probably about 5% larger in all dimensions. The AXIS mechanism is fantastic, but why use stainless steel liners? Even perforated, that adds quite a bit of weight. The liners are thicker, so the knife’s overall thickness increases significantly. It’s also wider and longer, making it just a little too bulky for pocket clip carry. The Axis knife tends to pull on the pocket, whereas the older liner lock version with titanium liners doesn’t. So I sold the D2 version and bought one of the M390 with all-black G10, which is contoured and textured very nicely. The fit and finish are better, and it features beautifully anodized standoffs. I thought it would be lighter since I was told the liners were titanium, but most definitely they are not. The thumb hole isn’t oval but round, just like on the original AFCK, though slightly larger. Opening it is still a simple flick of the thumb. The size of the previously mentioned Axis lock version was a bit too much for me, so I put the original clip back on and sold the knife. I don’t miss it for a second. The first thing I did with the new one was remove the pocket clip and replace it with one from the older generation. Thank God they didn’t change the pattern entirely, unlike Spyderco. After successfully modifying my 800BT, I decided to do the same with my 814BT. The smaller knife, with stainless steel liners instead of the titanium ones in its larger sibling, actually made the machining process a bit easier. I still used epoxy as a lubricant and set agent. In the photos, you see my old handle paired with the new blade. I found a NOS AFCK with a very well-ground blade, so I thought it would be cool to swap the new blade into the old handle. It works perfectly, and the lock-up is rock solid. This is my EDC knife. Sometimes I panic and think I’ve lost it because I don’t feel it clip to my pocket, even after repeatedly reaching in throughout the day. Due to the tip-up carry and the handle’s curvature, I never notice it. Over time, my hand has worn the nylon standoff/spacer between the scales smooth.

Here is my Large and Small hanging out together.

With all the newfangled knives out there, many of which I have owned, I always go back to the AFCK for its straightforward utility, quality materials, easy carry, quick deployment, and durable build. Even my Spyderco Paramilitary sits in the drawer 85% of the time because I naturally reach for the AFCK. 

 

In closing, my dream would be if they resurrected the original design with my two improvements and maybe replaced the 154CM blade with K390, 20CV, or even the reliable old S30V. Maybe I should call Les.

                                A couple of pictures of the finished product in my pocket.  

Loveless Knives – The End Of An Era

Ever since I learned of Jim Merritt’s passing in December of 2018, I’ve been giving a lot of thought to knife makers and their legacy. There are a couple of makers who really, and I mean REALLY had an impact on modern knife making and design. William Scagel, in my opinion, is at the top of the list. Right under him is Bob Loveless. And, before any of you get your knickers in a twist because your favorite maker was not on this very short list, Think. Think…are there entire generations of knives named after your maker? Will you find a nod to your favorite maker’s design work in just about every fixed blade knife now made? Doubtful. Even James Behring Jr. makes knives he calls Scagel knives. Here is one.

If Not For Scagel, There Would Be No Randall

Sure, Randall Made Knives have 30+ models that they have designed over the years, but each of them has a little Scagel DNA in them. All you have to do is look at the handle design and construction as well as some of the blade shapes. It also does not hurt that Randall states that he wanted to make an exact copy of the Scagel. Randall certainly evolved has added his own (as well as others, namely Tommy Thompson and Ward Gay) trademark design elements to the knives, which have in turn been copied by other makers. But it all started with Scagel and the “Boat Scraping Knife”.

Did Someone Say Drop Point?

Then there is Bob Loveless. Just describing a knife with a Dropped Point, or as more commonly is referred to as a Drop Point, is a nod to Bob Loveless. The shape of the handle of his hunter is also now so common, makers don’t even credit him with the design. It is considered the standard. Let’s not forget about tapered tangs. How about Loveless Bolts. Gee, how many makers have a part named after them. Only a few. For example, Michael Walker has the liner lock with a ball detent. (Liner locks had been around prior to Michael, but not with ball detents), Chris Reeve created the integral frame lock, which is an adaptation from Michael’s liner, and Rick Hinderer has the overextension stop, which, if not for Michael Walker and Chris Reeve, would never have been spawned because there would not be a frame lock needing an overextension device.

Bob Loveless was a great designer. His mind was constantly churning out new ideas for all kinds of products or ways to vastly improve existing products. He designed the mechanism that made Chatty Kathy talk. He made improvements to guns. As for knife making, he revolutionized something as basic as the way a guard is affixed to a knife handle of a knife and then how the handle slabs are attached. These are things that are taken for granted these days. Think about all the knives you have owned or wanted to own. Did it have a full tang? Was that tang tapered? Was there a red (or any color for that matter) liner between the handle and the tang? Was the blade deeply hollow ground? Is it stainless? Is the spine nice and polished, without sharp edges? Is there a nice palm swell in the handle? Is the point of the knife dropped so you don’t pierce the entrails of the deer you are processing? Is the ricasso in direct line with the blade with no fancy choil or finger groove creating a place for the hide of the animal to get caught on? Is your knife perfectly balanced? Do you have a Micarta handle? Is the name of the maker acid etched into the blade rather than stamped? Does the leather sheath hold the knife even when upside down? Does your knife “pop” when it finds “home” in the sheath? Well, if you answered yes to any of those questions, then can I hear a “THANK YOU BOB !!!!

My admiration for Bob does in no way diminish my admiration of Randall Made Knives or Bob Dozier. They both are tremendous talents and have contributed untold benefits to knife making and makers. I’ll touch on their contributions in another article. My focus for this article is on Bob Loveless.

ManGearUSA … A Loveless Dealer?

When I was approached to become a Loveless Dealer, I was thrilled. Just to be associated with that famous name was so exciting. Prior to my first order landing at my door, I’d never owned a Loveless. I’ve owned plenty of incredibly well done Loveless homages. Specifically the W.C. Davis version, but never a real Loveless. I’d touched a few years ago at knife shows. But never took one home. Suddenly, I owned three, and that was just the start.

After I received that first batch and took all the pictures to put them on my site, it dawned me that Jim Merritt was in his 80’s. That simple fact, and the fact he was never seen wearing a mask when working, and always had a cigarette in his hands, made me a little nervous as to the longevity of this new relationship. What really made me sad was the realization that there was nobody learning the craft from Jim. Jim was a great maker. His attention to detail, fit, and finish was second to none. That is why Loveless worked hard to convince Jim to work in the Loveless shop. Jim probably made the Loveless you own. He worked for Loveless for 30+ years and continued after Bob’s death in 2010. Bob was an amazing visionary and designer but not the greatest maker. His work was really quite excellent and better than most, but not to the level of a Jim Merritt or in my opinion, Steve Johnson. He also began to tire of life in the shop and wanted to do other things. But, knife making was what put dinner on the table, and with enough orders and notoriety to last a lifetime, he passed the “making” torch to Jim. Now, before some of the Loveless “fanboys” get too worked up, since becoming a Dealer I’ve had the opportunity to examine early examples of Loveless, and also a couple during the height of Bob’s making and then some Jim Merritt knives prior to partnering with Bob. Bob’s early knives were great users, but his fit and finish were not pristine. But, in his defense, as a part-time maker, I realize that skill constantly evolves and improvements in machinery also play a big role. He was also not in the business of making safe queens. His knives were to be used. Sometimes, if something is too pretty, you end up not using it. He also admitted that those first knives were, to a degree, copies of Randall Made Knives. When his own personal designs started selling and changing the knife world, his construction techniques changed and his attention to detail did as well. But, even at his best, his craftsmanship was not that of Jim Merritt. Jim had a good reputation in the knife world and was a regular at the shows with a steady following. But…not like the crowd that would be at the Loveless table. Jim loved to make knives, Bob loved to schmooze with the people and talk knives. It was a match made in heaven.

What’s Next?

On the one hand, I’d love to see another maker, trained by Jim and having apprenticed in the shop for several years, continue the brand. But, on the other hand, is that really practical? Are some era’s supposed to end? Sure, there are Loveless trained makers still doing work of their own. Steve Johnson, mentioned above, Brent Harp who died in 2016, and Koichiro Oda. The only thing about a different maker is that it’s really not a Loveless. There would be no more Loveless mystique. When things are one generation removed, they sort of lose their attraction. Another maker, even if trained by Bob and Jim, would simply just be another maker, trained by Bob and Jim, making Loveless designs. The best example of this is if W.C. Davis was still alive and making knives in the Loveless Shop. He would never be able to command the prices that Bob and Jim “Loveless” knives were fetching. I’ve seen tons of Loveless Homages. W.C. made the best. I have one of his best large dropped hunters. For all intents and purposes, it could have come out of the Loveless shop. But, even at the high price of $700.00, I can’t picture Jim or Bob even getting out of bed for that price.

Randall Made Knives is a family business and name. Sure, there are employees at Randall. But their business is a different animal altogether. That topic is for another day.

So, it seems that the era of a great designer and ambassador of the knife making world is truly at an end. I’d really like to see the shop stay intact and be turned into a museum of sorts. I’d pay a nice admission price to walk through the shop. Even if it was in its entirety, moved to the Smithsonian. But, something tells me my wish will not come true. I’m sure all of the shop items will be auctioned off to the highest bidder and parceled away all over the world.